A slow week in Hokkaido in late winter
I arrived in Sapporo the week after the snow festival, when the ice sculptures were being chipped away and the crowds had gone home. That was the point.
Otaru by local train
The local train to Otaru follows the shoreline so closely that waves break a few metres from the window. I spent an afternoon walking the canal and an evening in a tiny glass workshop, where the owner let me try, badly, to shape a cup.
Notes on gear
Ice cleats that strap over ordinary shoes cost about ¥1,500 at any convenience store and are worth ten times that. A small thermos made every station wait pleasant.
The ramen
There is a counter near Susukino with eight stools and no English menu. Point at the picture with the butter on top. Thank me later.