Walking the Cinque Terre off-season
In summer the trains between the five villages are packed shoulder to shoulder. In November I had whole carriages to myself and the trattorie were half empty, which meant the owners had time to talk.
The trails
The coastal path between Corniglia and Vernazza was open; the one from Manarola was closed after autumn landslides. The upper trails through the vineyards are steeper, quieter and, I think, better.
Practical
Stay in La Spezia and use the regional train — it is cheaper and you can follow the weather. Bring cash for the smaller places. Most of all, walk early, before the sun is over the ridge.